Part One: Sixth Street

In all the great wealth of San Francisco’s historical documentation, there is little to be found regarding Sixth Street. Sixth Street is a subculture that is itself a mix of subcultures, with complex social dynamics that are largely ignored and therefore little understood by the mainstream. Social and cultural conditioning have created prejudicial blind spots in the way people think about Sixth Street; in fact, most people wish Sixth Street would just go away. If ever someone actually studied the phenomenon of Sixth Street, they apparently didn’t bother to publish their findings. The only way to learn about the history of Sixth Street, and to acquire an understanding of the people who live and work there, is to immerse oneself in the neighborhood—something very few people care to do.

Conveniently Located

Conveniently Located

MIDTOWN LOANS and WHITAKER HOTEL – 39 and 41 SIXTH STREET

When I immigrated to San Francisco in 1968, the SROs that filled South of Market were largely populated by merchant marines and retired blue-collar workers eking out their golden years on meager pensions, men whose labors helped make San Francisco a thriving, prosperous, world-renowned city. Most people thought of these residents as bums and winos, characterizations that had been cultivated since the 1950s by the San Francisco Redevelopment Agency and downtown developers, aided by one of the City’s daily newspapers. The paper published articles that depicted South of Market SROs as flophouses inhabited by alcoholics and lowlifes, embellishing the stories by posing unwitting hotel residents in photos that purported to show them getting drunk on the sidewalks in front of their hotels.

Alcoholics-on-Skid-Road_1956
Source: San Francisco History Center, S.F. Public Library
Newscopy: “Alcoholics on Skid Road.” (1956), S. F. News Call-Bulletin photo.

Group-of-men-on-Skid-Road_1
Source: San Francisco History Center, S.F. Public Library
Newscopy: “SKID ROAD, SAN FRANCISCO–’No one along Skid Road is likely to shop carefully.’” (1956), S. F. News Call-Bulletin photo.

Little mention was made of the workers and retirees who were by far the majority of SRO residents. The intention was to mitigate concern for the thousands of people who were to be displaced by the razing of every SRO from Third Street to Fifth Street, thus allowing the City to save millions of dollars by sidestepping the issue of relocation. Who would care about the evictions of bums and ne’er-do-wells? The scheme was more than successful; the cynical manipulation of public opinion engendered a prejudice against hotel life that to this day shapes both public perception and government policy, for which Sixth Street has greatly suffered.

Hotel-on-Skid-Road_1952-
Source: San Francisco History Center, S.F. Public Library
Newscopy: “SKID ROAD–This is a hotel in the wino district. It has 200 rooms renting from 50 to 75¢ a night, chiefly to old-age pensioners.” (1952), S. F. News Call-Bulletin photo.

Homeless-Man_1964-
Source: San Francisco History Center, S.F. Public Library
Newscopy: “A new day dawns… and under the Bay Bridge a human bundle of rags and thirst… tries to raise a befuddled head in a kind of numb awakening. Below is a view of what many creatures that once were men called ‘home.’ Their rooms are hollowed-out nests in the ground; their furnishings burlap, old bottles and filthy blankets. Read about it in Guy Wright’s ‘A Hidden World of Lost Men’, page 31.” (1964), S. F. News Call-Bulletin photo by Eddie Murphy.

In recent years, a sympathetic district supervisor helped to implement some needed improvements for the SROs that remain, but generally the policies of city government and law enforcement regarding Sixth Street have created more problems than they have solved. As if filthy sidewalks and poorly maintained hotels with greedy owners and abusive managers weren’t bad enough, residents must also live with the constant threats of robbery and violence, because the police for years have used Sixth Street as a containment zone for crime. The corralling of criminal activity by the SFPD and irregular, shoddy maintenance by the Department of Public Works are underlying reasons why attempts to improve the appearance of the neighborhood never seem to make any lasting difference. The few hotels that have been bought and refurbished by nonprofit corporations now have modern, better-maintained accommodations and offer in-house support services. These are major improvements to be sure, but as it turns out, even these SROs—in particular those managed by the Tenderloin Housing Clinic through the City’s so-called Master Lease Program—have their own serious problems, many of which can be traced to a disconnect between upper- and lower-level management. The Hotel Seneca, for example, has become notorious for open drug activity in the hallways.

Winter Evening – Sixth Street

VANTAGE POINT: SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL

I have great love for Sixth Street, not for what it has become, but for what lies beneath the veneer of crime and decay, invisible to all except those who live and work there: its people and its history. Much of what I have learned has come from the stories of old-timers who have lived and worked on Sixth Street for many years. I also have the experience of living in a Sixth Street SRO for five-and-a-half years and personal memories that span the years since my landing in San Francisco. The few historical photos I have found are scattered between the main branch of the San Francisco Public Library and the California Historical Society. My own photography adds a little bit more to the record, and though it is largely an expression of love, it is also an act of defiance whereby I thumb my nose at the blindly onrushing forces of redevelopment and urban renewal, which have no use for history.

6th Street, circa 1950
Source: San Francisco History Center, S.F. Public Library
Sixth Street, circa 1950.

Sai

Sai

SAI HOTEL – 964 HOWARD STREET

In March 2001 I moved into the Sai Hotel, into the tiniest room outside of a closet that I have ever seen. My room was at the very back of the hotel on the top floor. It was just large enough for a narrow single bed, with about twelve inches to spare at the foot of the bed and about twice that distance from the side of the bed to the opposite wall. A very narrow door opened inward, just missing the minuscule sink attached to the wall opposite the bed. Unable to squeeze between the sink and the bed, I had to climb onto the bed to close the door and had to face the sink from the side in order to use it. The only furniture was a small nightstand at the head of the bed. There was no closet, not even hooks or nails in the walls. The one electrical outlet was in an exposed utility box about two feet above the sink. A small window near the head of the bed kept the room fairly bright during the day, and an unshaded light bulb that hung from the ceiling lit the room at night. My rent was $400 a month. It was like living in a broom closet, but it was the first place I could call home after nearly six years of living on the streets.

Invocation

Invocation

SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

One month at the Sai was all I could take. Two hotels later, I settled at the Shree Ganeshai. The title of this image is derived from the name of the hotel. Many centuries ago Sanskrit scholars began their writings with an invocation to God, usually the one their family worshiped. One such invocation, to Ganesh, was shree ganeshaya namah. In the Hindu pantheon, Ganesh is the elephant-headed god who brought writing to the world by breaking off one of his tusks to use as a pen, the god of wisdom and auspicious beginnings. Over time the invocation came to be used before starting any activity and was gradually shortened until shree ganesh sufficed as a prayer for an auspicious beginning. The phrase is used today before any beginning, whether it is a meal, a journey or a task. During my stay at the Shree Ganeshai, I found comfort in the knowledge that my home was an endless prayer to Ganesh for a bright and beneficent new beginning. To this day, I keep on my bookshelf a small, golden effigy of Ganesh, a gift from the Shree Ganeshai’s manager, Nagin.

View from My Old Room

SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

A view from my old room, #10.

Same Room, Different View

SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

Same room, different view.

My old room

SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

Cramped, but comfortable.

Dawn – Rain’s End

Dawn - Rain's End

VANTAGE POINT: SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

As an insomniac, one of my perks is getting to see a lot of beautiful sunrises. I captured this one while seated at my computer one spring morning after a night of heavy rain. On the far left is a corner of the Hillsdale Hotel. The stacks are part of a P G and E steam plant on Jessie Street.

Gray Day #3

Gray-Day-#3-

VANTAGE POINT: SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

Obviously, I loved the view from my room, especially the steam plant stacks.

Island out of Time

Island Out of Time

HILLSDALE HOTEL – 51 SIXTH STREET

I find poignant beauty in buildings most people consider lowly, squalid eyesores. These old hotels have an archetypal quality that stirs my blood and attracts me like a magnet. So many people, so many stories, so much living has taken place within their walls.  How can you not feel it? We are far too willing to dispose of anything that is old just because we are told that new things are somehow better. I would ask why we are being told this.  Who benefits when we destroy our history?

My Back Yard

My Back Yard

VANTAGE POINT: SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

What I like most about this image are the windows to inner worlds. The closest building, of which just a corner is visible, is the Lawrence Hotel. Directly behind it is the Seneca Hotel. The rear wall of Fascination can be seen peeking over the roof line of the Lawrence, just before it intersects with the edge of the Seneca. The phallic structure in the background is the McAllister Tower. What appears to be a platform for an artillery turret is framework that once supported a water tank. Many of the older buildings in San Francisco have still-functioning rooftop water tanks, built in response to the 1906 conflagration, which had been catalyzed by earthquake-shattered water mains.

SoMa Sunset

SoMa Sunset

VANTAGE POINT: SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

Beginning toward the east with Island out of Time, followed by My Back Yard looking northwest, this photo of the western skyline is the final frame of my rooftop panorama.

Dentils of Metal

Dentils of Metal

SUNNYSIDE and MINNA LEE HOTELS – 135 and 149 SIXTH STREET

The box-like components of a cornice are called dentils. While their size and shape may vary, they are always symmetrical and look like long rows of evenly spaced teeth, from which their name is derived.

A Lost Art

A Lost Art

SUNSET HOTEL – 161 SIXTH STREET

Shown here is a small section of the cornice that crowns the Sunset Hotel on 6th Street. I like it for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the simplicity of its design. I also like the very large dentils and the medallion that decorates the bracket at the end. Rust reveals that it is a metal fabrication and not carved stone. Simplicity and neglect combine to make this architectural detail a perfect symbol for all old residential hotels.

If Walls Could Speak

If Walls Could Speak

HUGO HOTEL – SIXTH and HOWARD STREETS

The Hugo Hotel is the oldest hotel on Sixth Street. A four-story masonry structure, it has been tenantless since a fire burned out a number of rooms in the late ’80s. In 1997 a group of artists headed by Brian Goggin staged a defenestration event at the Hugo, turning the hotel into an immense sculptural mural. Taking a liberty with the definition of defenestration, the artists cut apart and reassembled various types of scavenged furniture to give it the appearance of running or writhing. Tables leapt from windows and ran across the outside walls. Lamps corkscrewed from some windows, and sofas, refrigerators, bathtubs, even a grandfather clock squirmed and leapt from others. The furniture is there to this day, still running, leaping, and squirming out the windows. Untold thousands of photographs have been taken of the Hugo and its famous furniture, now a designated sightseeing stop, a housing crisis turned into public art. I took this photograph of what used to be the Hugo’s service alley because it shows the one wall of the hotel that has not been altered, save by the hand of Time.

Defenestration

Defenestration

HUGO HOTEL – SIXTH and HOWARD STREETS

The year 2007 marked the tenth anniversary of Defenestration. Most of the sideshow-themed paintings that were part of the original installation have been painted over, but the remarkable graffiti that has appeared in recent years more than makes up for the loss. After a decade of exposure to the elements, the escaping furniture is still intact. While I appreciate the building as a work of art, the truth is that the Hugo Hotel stayed empty and rotting for twenty years because its owners couldn’t find anyone willing to pay their  preposterous $4 million asking price. Their outspoken contempt* for those less fortunate reflects an attitude that for years has been tacitly encouraged by the policies of local government.

Tired of years-long haggling with the owners, in January 2008 the redevelopment agency announced it was seizing the Hugo by eminent domain, foredooming this controversial landmark to demolition and setting a precedent for similar action in the future. Despite the agency’s assurance to the contrary, other likely consequences will be the incursion of gentrification and the displacement of people who have nowhere else to go.

*“They can put the low-income people somewhere else… you can be homeless somewhere in Idaho.” — Varsha Patel, former owner, Hugo Hotel

Daybreak – Hugo Hotel

HUGO HOTEL – SIXTH and HOWARD STREETS

After shooting this photo of the Hugo in the fall of 2006, I filed it away and promptly forgot about it. Two years later, I uncovered it. Now that the building’s ultimate destruction is imminent, it seemed fitting to make this image my requiem for the Hugo Hotel.

Sixth and Natoma

6th & Natoma

VANTAGE POINT: NATOMA near SIXTH STREET

The building on the far left is the St. Cloud Hotel, a wood frame rooming house with a storefront occupied by the San Francisco Mission, now City Team Ministries, a respite for the City’s dregs that has been in operation for over 100 years. The yellow building behind the St. Cloud is a wing of the Dudley Hotel, a renovated SRO that operates as non-profit housing.

St-Daniel-Hotel_1961
Source: San Francisco History Center, S.F. Public Library
Newscopy: “Slum area hotel at 259 Sixth St., owned by William H. H. Davis, president of the City Board of Permit Appeals.” (1961), S. F. News Call-Bulletin photo by Sid Tate.

Red Window

Red Window

ALKAIN HOTEL – 948 MISSION STREET (vantage point: JESSIE STREET)

Legend has it that the back streets in this area were named for some of the more popular prostitutes who worked in this part of town during the early years of the City. Whereas this story may be apocryphal, some streets do have such names as Jessie, Harriet, Clara, Mary, and so on. In fact, Jessie Street may well have been named after “Diamond Jessie” Hayman, a famous Tenderloin madam whose brothel was first on Mason Street and later on Eddy (see Joy of Life in Part Three: Uptown Tenderloin).

Peeling Wall

Peeling Wall

ABANDONED FIRE STATION – JESSIE at MINT STREET

Appearing organic and alive, this is the sunburned facade of a closed-down fire station, located across Jessie Street from the Old Mint. After I photographed it, the building was restored and transformed into upscale lofts by the Martin Building Company. In memory of the old wall, a large print of this photograph now hangs in the Martin Building Company’s main offices.

Skyline

Skyline

VANTAGE POINT: NATOMA STREET

Looking northeast from Natoma near its intersection with Mary, one sees from left to right the rear of 447 Minna, the Chronicle Hotel, The Provident Loan Co. and the Chronicle Newspaper Building. Behind the Chronicle Hotel are the San Francisco Hilton Tower I, the then-unfinished offices of the Martin Building Company, the old fire station that is the subject of Peeling Wall and the Parc Renaissance Hotel. Behind the Chronicle Building are the pediment and red brick chimneys of the Old Mint.

Chronicle

Chronicle

CHRONICLE HOTEL – 936 MISSION STREET

If a contest were held for old hotel signs, the Chronicle Hotel’s would win hands down as most illegible.

Legacy

View from Natoma Street

447 MINNA STREET (rear), CHRONICLE HOTEL, HILTON TOWER I

There are still places South of Market, mostly on narrow back streets between the main thoroughfares, where the buildings have stood virtually unchanged for a century: remnants of a vibrant past, survivors of the slash and burn strategies of urban renewal.

447 Minna Street

447 MINNA STREET

Imprint of the Past

Imprint of the Past

STEVENSON STREET between FIFTH and SIXTH STREETS

The history of this building is indelibly stamped upon it by the changes in its brickwork. The windows and doors were undoubtedly added when the opening through the arch was bricked up. The design and complexity of the original brickwork hearken back a hundred years, to a time when horses were still in common use. I like to imagine a smithy had his shop set up here (blacksmith shops needed plenty of ventilation, requiring an open wall), where he tended to the needs of some of the City’s horses back in the day.

Dusk – Harriet Street

Dusk - Harriet Street

PARKING LOT – HARRIET STREET

The raw, post-industrial atmosphere depicted here has, regrettably, almost completely vanished from the South of Market landscape. Most of the old warehouses and industrial buildings were torn down during the dot-com boom of the ’90s and replaced by gauche, unattractive, overpriced condos that have effaced much of the district’s history.

Inner City (Homage to Chester Gould)

Inner City

STEVENSON STREET between SIXTH and SEVENTH STREETS

Spanning Stevenson Street just about midway between Sixth and Seventh Streets, a covered footbridge connects what used to be Weinstein’s Department Store and the building that served as that company’s office and warehouse space. The department store has been converted into live/work lofts, and the onetime warehouse is now occupied by a dot-com enterprise. What matters most to me is that the footbridge is still there. At one time, such footbridges were numerous in the back streets of San Francisco. This is the only one that remains in the central city.

Chester Gould was the artist who for many years drew Dick Tracy, one of my favorite comic strips when I was a boy. I loved the way he drew urban settings; they were always ominous and foreboding, and the buildings had a tendency to lean inward over the streets, making people appear small and insignificant. He owed a certain debt to film noir, I think, and I owe a debt to his memory for inspiring this picture.

Daybreak

Daybreak

FASCINATION (trade entrance) – STEVENSON STREET

The day I photographed Fascination’s service entrance promised to be beautiful and sunny. The early morning fog was starting to burn away with the rising of the sun, exposing more blue sky by the minute; signaling the impending demise of the dawn’s pink light. I happily snapped away, enjoying the early morning quiet. Of the many photos that I took, these two captured what I was after (see also Fascination in Part Two: Mid-Market).

Back Street Transfiguration

Back Alley Transfiguration

FASCINATION (trade entrance) – STEVENSON STREET

Stairway to Sunnyside

Stairway to Sunnyside

HOTEL SUNNYSIDE – 135 SIXTH STREET

Residential hotel interiors are not easy to photograph. In general, the managers of SROs are strongly, sometimes violently, opposed to any public exposure of themselves or their buildings. This forbidding stairway leads to the rooms in the Sunnyside Hotel, a place where ghosts linger in dark corners and on the landings.

Sunnyside-montage

ROOM 310 – SUNNYSIDE HOTEL

These photos should help explain why some SRO owners and managers are so vehemently against the disclosure of conditions inside their hotels. In case you are wondering, the dark brown splashes on the walls are blood.

Desmond

Desmond

DESMOND HOTEL – 42 SIXTH STREET

In the relatively short time since I began this project, many of the old signs have disappeared, having been consigned to History’s dustbin in the name of improvement. The sign for the Desmond Hotel is gone, replaced by an unlovely canvas marquee resembling a shoe box that, having been up for only a few years, is already faded and damaged.

Early in 2006, I was contacted by a tenant at the Desmond, who asked me if I would photograph the conditions inside his room. The hotel manager had refused to either make his room livable, or give him another room and the tenant wanted to have photographic documentation for legal purposes. Happy to be of assistance, I later met him in his room. These photographs show what I found there. Unbelievable though it may seem, both the Department of Building Inspection and the Department of Public Health had given this room a “pass.”

Desmond-montage

ROOM 303 – DESMOND HOTEL

Sunset – the Alder

Sunset - The Alder

ALDER HOTEL – 175 SIXTH STREET

Renovation of the Alder was completed mid-2006 and the hotel is once again open for business. The hotel’s neon sign was also refurbished. It is one of only two neon signs remaining on 6th Street, thanks in no small part to the Six on Sixth plan, a program of low-interest property improvement loans designed by the redevelopment agency specifically for 6th Street hotel keepers and small business proprietors and negotiated by the agency’s emissary, Urban Solutions. The purported goal of the plan is to stimulate commerce and economic growth by improving 6th Street’s outward appearance. Among other things, loan applicants have been encouraged to replace their historic, but decayed neon signs with cheap canvas awnings. The results of this Band-Aid approach to improvement have been disastrous. The awnings subvert the neighborhood’s visual and historical integrity, their impermanence and tawdry appearance adding insult to injury.

Dawn – the Alder

Dawn - the Alder

HOTEL ALDER – 175 SIXTH STREET

Henry

Henry

HOTEL HENRY – 106 SIXTH STREET

I’m still hopeful that the Henry’s sign might some day be restored.

Lawrence

Lawrence

LAWRENCE HOTEL – 48 SIXTH STREET

My commitment to this project began with this picture, one of my earliest photographs. A few short weeks after I shot this photo, the sign for the Lawrence Hotel became landfill. Visible behind the barber shop sign is a few inches of the old Desmond Hotel sign that was taken down a year later.

People occasionally ask me why I don’t take “after” shots, photographs of the way things now appear. My answer is that the results of so-called modernization are going to be around for a long time, but history, with rare exceptions, is being obliterated before our eyes.

Upper Sixth Street

Upper 6th Street

WINSOR and SENECA HOTELS – 20 and 34 SIXTH STREET

Next door to the Winsor Hotel is the bar formerly known as the Charleston. A corner of the sign for Grady’s, a very popular bar that once opened into the lobby of the Seneca Hotel, is visible on the lower left. It was for a long time commonly believed that these bars were little more than watering holes for down-and-out alcoholics. While their run-down appearance may have qualified them as dives, they were in fact important social hubs for the neighborhood’s older residents, serving as living room and even dining room for folks whose homes consisted of a single small room. Shortly after the Seneca became a Master Lease hotel and management was taken over by the Tenderloin Housing Clinic, Grady’s was served with a three-day eviction notice. It closed its doors for the last time on St. Patrick’s Day 2002 and was followed by the Charleston later that year, leaving many of the community’s seniors without a place where they could meet and socialize. Since then, nothing has been done to address that need. Their social lives erased, it is as if these people never existed; they are rarely, if ever, seen anymore. All that is left for them is the solitude of their lonely rooms.

Arrow

Arrow

THE ARROW – 18 SIXTH STREET

The Charleston became the Arrow, which in late 2007 became the Matador. Not long before I captured this image, the Charleston was a neighborhood bar, a place to socialize for the people who live in the area’s hotels. Near the end of 2002, the proprietors sold their liquor license to some young entrepreneurs and the owners of other bars on Sixth Street soon followed suit. In the space of about a year, all of the bars on Sixth Street closed and then reopened with new names, catering to a very different clientele. My friend Jim Ayers, who for many years has lived on Sixth Street and who managed Grady’s until it closed, helped the new owners of the Arrow get started. For a couple of years, he worked the opening shift and I would drop in for a pint now and then while he was working. One of those times, I took some photographs of the bar. This one is my favorite.

Jim at The Arrow

Jim at The Arrow
Source: San Francisco Chronicle

When a fourth of the City’s power was knocked out for several days by a Mission Street substation explosion in 2003, Jim fired up his portable generator at the Arrow, tuned in the 49ers game, and grilled steaks for patrons on his barbecue, making the Arrow the only place for miles around that was open for business. In this Chronicle sports section front-page photo Jim was actually bemoaning a 49ers touchdown—not the other way around, as the caption would have you believe.

Moon over Sixth Street

Waxing Moon over 6th Street

HILLSDALE HOTEL – 51 SIXTH STREET

On a cloudless April evening in 2004, I was standing in front of the Arrow, talking to my friend Jim. The sun was setting as we talked, and as the sky grew darker I saw that I could get a shot of the waxing moon while the last rays of sunlight were still visible. What appeals to me about this particular image is its simplicity: just the dark roof line of the Hillsdale, faintly highlighted by the last, red rays of sunlight, and the moon in a clear, ultramarine sky.

Reflection

Reflection

LAWRENCE and HILLSDALE HOTELS – 48 and 51 STREET

On the street level of the Lawrence is Club Six, a trendy nightclub patronized by hordes of self-indulgent young suburbanites, oblivious to their environment and unmindful of Sixth Street residents. Before it became Club Six, the ground floor was a decades-old neighborhood bar called Frisco, a name I loved for its in-your-face appeal to the bar’s clientele; Frisco was an affectionate way of referring to the home port used by the merchant marines and sailors who once populated Sixth Street’s SROs. Alas, that pride of place has all but entirely vanished, having been replaced by the mores of the culture of greed.

Fading Light

Fading Light

LAWRENCE HOTEL – 48 SIXTH STREET

This image of the Lawrence Hotel, silhouetted by the dying embers of a spectacular sunset, is one of my earliest photographs for this series, shot from my fire escape across the alley.

Fire Escape

Fire Escape

VANTAGE POINT: SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

Looking across Jessie Street from my fire escape, I could see a small part of the Seneca Hotel behind the Lawrence and, in the distance, the McAllister Tower. As you will see in the next few images, I had something of a love affair with that fire escape.

Rainy Sixth Street #1

HAVELI, WHITAKER and OAK TREE HOTELS – 37, 41 and 45 SIXTH STREET

This photo of a wet evening in late autumn is for me a living image. I hear the sounds of traffic on wet pavement, footfalls on the sidewalks and the faint staccato of light rainfall. The traffic whizzes by in a darkening world that feels so comforting to me, as though Mother Earth were pulling up the blanket around my chin for the night.

Rainy Sixth Street #2

Rainy 6th Street #2

WHITAKER, OAK TREE and HILLSDALE HOTELS – 41, 45 and 51 SIXTH STREET

On a wet December evening a little more than a year after I shot Rainy 6th Street #1, I photographed this little scene taking place in front of what was once another neighborhood gathering place, Ginger’s, Too.

Window onto Sixth Street

Window onto 6th Street

VANTAGE POINT: SHREE GANESHAI HOTEL – 68 SIXTH STREET

For all its problems, 6th Street has an unquenchable vitality. The day may be cold and rainy or warm and sunny, but the activity on the street remains constant. The weather was wet and blustery when I took this photograph. I liked the way the grime and soot, which for decades had accumulated on the window, imparted the look of a watercolor to the street scene below.

Sixth Street Beautification

6th Street Beautification

The San Francisco Redevelopment Agency has been trying for years to change the face of 6th Street. Their efforts have primarily consisted of widening the sidewalks, installing new street lights, planting $10,000 palm trees at the intersections of 6th & Mission and 6th & Howard Streets, and hanging banners from the new street lights that proclaim 6th Street is being beautified. Urban Solutions, pusher of the redevelopment agency’s Six on Sixth plan, has been brokering leases on long-empty storefronts and has made it possible for some of the hotels and small businesses to repaint their facades and, in some cases, remodel their interiors. The combined costs since 1999 have exceeded $100 million. I offer here various prospects of 6th Street captured mid-2008 and at the end of 2006, so that you may judge for yourself how successful the Sixth Street Beautification program has been.

Sixth and Market

6th & Market

Sixth and Jessie

6th & Jessie

Sixth and Mission

6th & Mission

Club Six

Club Six

Sixth and Natoma

6th Street in Winter

Beer, Liquor, Wine — Jesus Cares

Beer, Liquor, Wine - Jesus Cares

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Copyright © 2004–2008, Mark Ellinger

Except where otherwise indicated,
the images at this site are licensed under a
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31 Responses to “Part One: Sixth Street”

  1. wow.

    mark I’m just about speechless. these images are so beautiful.

    Thank you, my dear.

    I’m still learning the ins and outs of WordPress, but I’m happy with the way this is shaping up.

    Are there any photos that particularly stand out for you?

  2. Mark,
    Your pictures are beautiful. The need to take them reveals your artist’s heart. The passionate writing that accompanies them reveals your soul. I wept with a resonance I all too seldom feel. It comforts me to know you are out there.
    My favorite(s) are “chronicle” “window onto sixth street” and “sixth street beautification”.
    Thank you for showing this.

    Thank you for taking the time to comment, Eva. Your very kind words are deeply appreciated and lend added inspiration to finish this project.

  3. Hi Toby, love your photos, especially the peeling building.

    I’m looking forward to reading and enjoying more of your work.

    Thanks!
    I stopped by Feathers or Foam and found it very entertaining. Seems that porcine behavior cuts across lines of class, economics and education…

  4. Dear Sir,
    I used to live in various apartments, spaces, and in the “lofts” (one-room studios w/ no kitchen or bathroom in any other city) on market, and bordering stevenson, next to Kaplan’s, near the pedestrian dept store bridge for years and years, through the dot.com era and after. Finding this website is truly a sweet thing for me, you have captured the strange beauty and vitality of the sixth street area with great attention and tenderness in your photographs and text. thank you.

    Daniel, thank you for your comment (and please, call me Mark). It means a lot to me when someone who has lived in the central city finds what I am doing here worthwhile.

    I’m guessing that one of the places you lived in was a loft at 1049 Market St. There was a time when I considered moving there, but the politics that determined the availability of desirable loft spaces wasn’t something I wanted to get involved with.

  5. i live in marin county, and never go into the city… i know it is a sin, but i just cannot bring myself to go… too big.. too foreign… too many people… and cars and….

    i thank you for making this available to me, as without it i may never see the beauty you have captured…

    Thanks for visiting, Paisley. Please come back and be sure to say “hi” when you do.

    If ever you should change your mind about coming to the City, please allow me to be your escort and guide. :)

  6. A vision of a community comes through in these pictures, a community that has been in transition for some time. And yet, it’s still there. Your eye for line and color is amazing. Keep up your work.

    perri

    Thank you, Perri.

  7. My god, these photos are so incredibly beautiful. You have such an amazing talent to make the these buildings come alive for us and your writing is so honest and heartfelt.

    I am truly absorbed by your efforts here and what you have shared with us.

    thank you, especially for taking the time to comment.

  8. My comment is nothing compared to your work…and I think it’s important to thank and recognize beauty when it is given to you, so of course it is only natural to leave you a comment.
    ;-)

  9. Hi Mark,
    thanks for these wonderful photos and your stunning description. I just moved to San Francisco from Europe and even 6th street scared me in the beginning I started to find this area very fascinating. I just learned about SRO’s in general yesterday and actually most of it through your project.

    Again- thanks so much. Your project is one of the hidden gems in the net. I will share this site with my friends.

    Markus

    Thank you very much indeed for your comments and thanks for directing your friends to my site!

  10. Hi!
    I’m a student in journalism at San Francisco State University and I’m very interested in this project as well as the beautification project. So interested that I decided to dedicate a long article to it. It probably won’t be published but I would love to interview you or someone else who has the experience of those SRO on 6th street. Your knowledge would be so helpful to me. Please let me know if you can help me out!

    Sabrina

    Check your email, Sabrina.

    Mark

  11. Being born & raised in and around San Francisco I find your images hauntingly beautiful.

    Thanks

    Thank you, Ran, both for your kind words, and for taking the time to comment.

  12. I not only love your images, I like your descriptions of the social problems being created by the “beautification.” I live in a similar area of Seattle, and the condos are going up fast. As they go up, there are fewer places where the people in my public housing building can hang out. We can’t afford to go to Starbuck’s. We used to have a laundromat connected to a bar. It’s now an upscale restaurant. They emptied out half a block of family businesses behind us, and put in upscale businesses. All the union halls in the area have either left or gone upscale. The carpenters are still here, but built an apartment building over their hall.
    A lot of government policy has the effect of imprisoning old and poor people in their own homes. It’s easier for Bill Gates to qualify for a power wheelchair, because the standard is not being able to get around your home. He has a big home. Outside doesn’t count. I haven’t seen one lady in the building with a dog for a year, because she can’t get around anymore. I know she is still here because her neighbors walk her dog for her. I understand the impact of the gentrification of the bars had on the neighborhood.

    Your story touches me deeply, silverstar. It is heartbreaking to see so many lives wrecked by a callous government and cold-hearted developers. These are the stories that never make the news, but which should be plastered everywhere for all to see just how damaging gentrification really is.

    Thank you for sharing your story.

  13. I have often wondered if how we look at things changes those things we look at. Like some deep and interconnected thread, that the very manner in which we view the world can change the world.

    When I see the deep beauty and respect and awe in your photography, I am convinced of it. That we are in relation to all things.

    Your comment goes straight to my heart, Mandy. “Thank you” barely scratches the surface of what I feel, but it’s the best I can muster.

    Thank you.

  14. Your photographs are quite wonderful and true. You’ve captured the beauty of this area of the City in a way that I thought was impossible. It heartens me to know that someone is out there perceiving and preserving the City in a way that reflects my own thoughts I have had about the history and architecture of that area. Thank you.

    Thank you, Erika. It’s so nice to hear from someone who shares my love of the central city. Thanks for dropping in and sharing your thoughts.

  15. I love your photos of a neighborhood I fell in love with 12 years ago when moving to the city. I’m from City Crossroads, the youth recreation center on the corner of 6th & Natoma. If you want to come see our yard to photograph just let me know.

    When first arriving on 6th Street I couldn’t see beyond the pain and sadness of the people. Meeting the children who live there gave me new insight but you have opened my eyes to visions that I hope the children I work with see.

    Ann

    Thank you, Ann. I would love to come by City Crossroads sometime and meet with you and the kids and would love to photograph all of you and the yard. I’ll be in touch with you soon.

    Mark

  16. Wow, this website is truly amazing! I am a Masters of Social Work student at SF State and I am interning on Mission @ 6th Street. I am currently working on a neighborhood analysis paper and came across your website. Your insight has completely changed my perspective of the neighborhood & the SRO’s. The history you provide is invaluable! Your art work, passion, and creativity is amazing & I thank you for this website. Please keep sharing your wisdom!! Peace to you.

    Thank you, Kristin, both for your good wishes, and for letting me know that my work has changed your perspective of 6th Street. I am so pleased that you have chosen to study 6th Street. If I may make a recommendation, there are three people that you should seek out, all of whom are neighborhood treasures and repositories of information. They are: Nappy Chin, who spends much of his time at the 6th Street Photography Workshop on Brannan St.; Del Seymour, who—when he’s not doing research at the library—is most likely to be found on the southwest corner of 6th & Minna, working on the soon-to-open Rancho Parnassus with owner Andy Harris; and Jim Ayers (whose photo is in Part Four), neighborhood guardian and ombudsman, who you will find nearly every day in the early afternoon on 6th Street, between Jessie & Stevenson. When introducing yourself, you can melt the ice by telling them you were sent by me.

    Best of luck to you. If you have time, I would love to hear how things are progressing.

    Mark

  17. Hi Mark,

    I am not sure you will remember me, but we were roommates years ago on Utah St. Linda Wayne was our common friend….anyway, I hope you do.
    Your name came up because I am working on a documentary about the Kuchar brothers. There is mention of Curt McDowell, and footage from some of the old movies.

    I love your photos! Beauty is everywhere, and you seem to be looking for it. Found, I’d say.

    Stay in touch, and best to you.

    Marilyn

    Marilyn!

    My, my, how the years roll by. Of course I remember you (and Linda). Seems like another lifetime.

    So, you’re filming George and Mike? Sounds like a wonderful project. I saw George, briefly, a few years ago. Mike, I haven’t seen in many years. Do they still live in the Mission District (19th Street, the last I remember)?
    You mention footage from some of the old movies, but you don’t say which movies. Surely, The Devil’s Cleavage must be one of them. Now that brings up a lot of memories and puts a smile on my face! My god, what fun that was… I suppose there is footage from Thundercrack! as well?

    So much water under the bridge since the last time I saw you, my goodness. Having looked at this website, you have some idea of what I’ve been up to in recent years. I assume you Googled my name to find me. We should get together sometime and talk. I would love to learn more about what you’re doing and how it is you happen to be doing it. If your schedule permits, please come to the opening of Patricia’s and my exhibit next month. I’ll email an invitation to you a couple of weeks prior.

    So glad to have reconnected, Marilyn. Please pass along my good wishes to George and Mike, and please keep me informed about your film’s progress, especially the release date. Hope to see you at the opening on the 21st.

    Mark

  18. Mark …

    I moved to San Francisco in 1969. I remained there until 2001 when I moved to my new home in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.

    I was a frequent visitor to the South of the Slot (SoMa) in the 1970s and 1980s, and in 1998 I moved to an address near 5th Street and Tehama.

    I have enjoyed your excellent photographs and your writing so much that I would like to buy your book, “Up from the Deep”. Should I do that via Amazon or some such online source, or directly from you.

    Met vriendelijke groeten …

    Dave Cooper
    Amsterdam
    Nederland

    Thank you, David! Currently, the only way to purchase my books is online. The easiest way to do that is to return to my Home Page, where you will see a post titled Up from the Deep: Parts One and Two. Just click on the cover of the book you wish to purchase and you will be redirected to the page on my publisher’s site where you can buy the book. Thank you again, very much, for your interest in my work.

    Mark

  19. Hello Mark,

    Just wanted to say that this is an exceptionally well written piece. I came from a link nursemyra left on my site referring me to your photos. Coming from Vancouver, we share some similar architecture and socio-economic situations. I too am drawn to the ‘beauty’ of the Vancouver East Side however I do not have the bravery as you do to capture it in all it’s glory…
    Thank you for taking us on an often untold story of San Francisco.

    Thank you very much for your kind words. I’m very glad you enjoyed my little stories. Nursemyra is a dear for sending you over here!

  20. Mark,

    I was doing a Google image search for the Hugo Hotel and found your page. As a fan of old structures, old vehicles and old equipment, Your photographs capture 6th perfectly. Back in ‘05 I dated a girl that rented a room across from the Hugo, and I fell in love with it. Always joked that I would buy it if I won the Lottery, before heading back to rural Sebastopol.

    I visited Detroit in the mid 90’s. After anything historic was abandoned and before any of it was knocked down or restored.

    The history and surviving relics of both cities continue to fascinate me. Thanks for sharing, especially the often unseen interior shots.

    Cheers!

    I assume your girlfriend lived in the Orlando? I’ve always liked the domed turret windows of that building, but have yet to capture them in a way that I find satisfying.

    Glad you enjoyed my site. Thanks for visiting!

  21. Mark
    Your story is the greatest on the S.R.O.s on 6th Street.
    I wish you much luck on your movie and or books; you are doing great work helping those who are poor, disabled and old.
    I hope to meet you because I have a project I want to do that will help the disabled poor.
    I will be coming to the S.F. area or L.A., hope we can talk, I love your work.

    Margaret

    No movie plans, Margaret, but I hope to interest a publishing house in my books, as it’s the only way I’ll be able to make them affordable.

    Thanks very much for your kind words about my work. I’m sending you an email with my contact information. Feel free to get in touch with me whenever the time is right.

    Mark

  22. Hey, I happened upon you’re site, and it was kept me up much longer than I planned on being awake, but it was worth it. I live and work in the tenderloin, and although I love the neighborhood, I’ve never really been able to explain why. You put it in the perfect words. Anyway, out of curiosity, what the current status of old Hugo Hotel down on 6th? Thanks again for sharing your work.

    LukeSpray@gmail.com

    Thanks for dropping in, Luke, I always like hearing from people who live and work in the neighborhood. Very glad to know you enjoyed my site. Regarding the Hugo, the redevelopment agency plans to demolish it, but when that will happen, I don’t know.

  23. Mark Ellinger
    As I am going to say it again your work is so
    wonderful, it is helping the poor, the sick, the old
    who live in the SROs.
    we had a wonderful talk in March 2009
    I am coming to town to do a project on the SROs
    so things will hopefully be better for the sick, the
    old and the poor who have to live in these places.
    I would like to meet with you when I come to town. please leave me your Phone and e-mail
    margaretcabral784@gmail.com
    Margaret Cabral

  24. Hey Mark,

    What a flashback! In the “Window onto Sixth Street” photo I actually lived in the hotel that is painted red, with the Loan Sign on the awning, for about three months around 1975. It was far from a “respectable” address but it was clean and safe. The hotel was owned by a somewhat eccentric elderly woman named Pauline who only rented to gay men. Each room had a sink. The bathrooms and bath was shared by the tenants. There was a large center room that was suppose to be a communal area with a kitchen and eating area but Pauline had collected several large parrots which were kept in cages in the room. They constantly squawked. One had a propensity for saying “Mother” “Hello” “Fuck” endlessly. I stayed there for about three months.

    Thanks for the memories Mark!

    Thank you so much for sharing such a great story about living in the Whitaker Hotel, Philbert. If you know anyone else who has lived in a Sixth Street hotel and would be willing to share their anecdotes or stories, please send them my way.

    Thanks again for dropping in and for contributing your own slice of life on Sixth Street.

  25. beautiful pictures, thank you!!! :-)

    Thank you, Ulrika. I would love some day to explore Prague. Its history and architecture touch something very deep inside of me.

  26. Hello and thanks for the fine photos from a 15 year resident of SROs in the Tenderloin/Sixth Street areas…previously resided in NYC’s East Village. In SF lived in hotels Drake (Eddy St.), Baldwin House, Seneca, Orlando, as well as a few others in the Loin. In 1994 I moved to rural Placerville where I remain this day.

  27. Mark,

    Those pictures are really impressive. I feel like I was within the journey while reading and staring at the pictures. Thank you so much for sharing. I am planning to move on Minna and 6th street in the next couple weeks and google picked your tags from your posts. Also if ever you interested to print (large format) of those amazing photos please do contact me, I would be more than willing to help. Best for future projects.
    Nazeem

    Thank you, Nazeem. So you’re moving into the very belly of the beast, eh? I would love to meet and talk with you sometime. I currently offer 13″ x 19″ prints on fine art paper that I print myself with an Epson R2400, using UltraChrome pigment inks.

    Mark

    • The neighborhood is the only thing that’s bothering me about moving there. Do you think that should be a worry? I sometimes work night shifts and may be will take the 14-Muni back, and stop on 6th and mission. The Epson R2400 is a real beast too!! :) Well if ever you want to print even bigger, up to 60″ wide, shoot me an email. I’ll be glad to help.

      I wouldn’t worry, Nazeem. Sixth Street may appear frightening to those who are unfamiliar with it, but in six years of living on the corner of Sixth and Jessie, I never had any problems on the street, day or night.

      Thanks for the offer. I may some day take you up on it. Meantime, we should meet over coffee sometime to talk about our work.

      Mark

  28. Your photos are beautiful! Some look like paintings. You’re very talented. I hope you’re exhibiting them someewhere.

  29. Wow, have been tracing a relative and found him at The Lawrence Hotel 1942 by his registration card 1942 which led me to your site. I don’t know why he was in San Francisco and wonder what the area was like in the 40’s. ?

    I am in England and have found it fascinating looking at the photo’s

    • In the ’40s, when San Francisco was both a major commercial seaport and a US Navy base, the residential hotels on Sixth Street were largely populated by merchant marines, stevedores, and workers at the Hunter’s Point Navy Shipyards. This was well before the area began to seriously deteriorate. The photograph of Sixth Street circa 1950 is probably a fair representation of what the street looked like in the ’40s. A corner of the Lawrence Hotel is visible in the upper right of that photo.

      Best of luck with your search!

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